I do not understand the technicalities of music. I do know how to read sheet music. I do not play any instruments, and I definitely do not have a good singing voice. Honestly, the list of what I can’t do musically could go on.

BUT,

That has never stopped me from loving music. Music is for everyone, transcending geography, time and even language. It is fascinating how it can connect people all over across the globe. Through music, I have bonded with my parents, my friends from other states and countries, and even strangers. This is one of the reasons I have come to love New Orleans. There is an undeniable friendliness that exists here, especially in the musical context. Here, you do not need to be a musician to be part of the experience.

For some context, I was raised under parents who indoctrinated music into my daily life. Specifically, my fondness towards country music has been influenced by my parents. It has always been funny watching people’s reactions to my Asian immigrant parents’ love for country music. Friends would often do a double take when they realized my mom and dad sing along to Garth Brooks, Luke Combs, and Morgan Wallen. Thus, the idea of coming to Louisiana excited me. It would give me the chance to hear my childhood music on the radio stations. Whilst traveling around the state with my classmates, we dialed to every station possible to hear some good ole’ country. Luckily, we came across a variety of stations like “Cajun Country”. As expected, I was joyfully singing along to these songs. However, I was the only one in our small sprinter van to know all the lyrics to these songs. That did not stop me from my singing.

As our trip went on, we moved away from the stillness of rural Louisiana into the bustling environment of New Orleans. The city pulses with one defining sound: jazz. Unlike the country music I was raised with, jazz was unfamiliar territory to me. While I intended to seek familiar country songs, I was suddenly immersed in the sounds that encapsulates the very identity of New Orleans. Over the past couple of weeks, I have truly enjoyed indulging with this new musical style. I have always considered myself to be adventurous in my musical tastes, and this experience has pushed this quality further. Country music tends to develop its stories in a straight line, while Jazz flows in a manner that surprises its listeners. It is intensely expressive, and I can feel the raw emotions that exude from the musicians. And really, this has been the beauty of this Bookpacking experience: opening myself up to new sensations that challenge the regularity of my life at home.

My first exploration of Jazz was at Cafe Beignet on Bourbon Street. It is a touristy location that sells gumbo, jambalaya, and of course, beignets! Our eight person group gathered at the tiny metal tables, listening to the band playing. The band, a trio of older musicians, played with an effortless energy that filled the air. I did not recognize any of the songs, but I did not need to. Jazz has an inviting nature, in which anyone can listen too. This moment illustrated the way Jazz is an expressive art form that fosters human connection. Sitting and listening to music with my newfound friends was a sweet experience. We often come back to Cafe Beignet to enjoy the music.

Recently, Andrew took us to Preservation Hall. Located in the heart of the French Quarter, the venue has continued traditional New Orleans jazz since 1961. The musicians who perform here range in ages from mid-20s to early 90s. Unlike other jazz spots, Preservation Hall felt incredibly authentic (maybe because we were not allowed to have our phones out)! Our 45-minute set was led by Branden Lewis, who plays the trumpet. He has been leading the world-renowned band since 2022. My favorite moment came when the bassist stepped forward to both sing and play. The experience was moving as he provided an extremely soulful performance. By the end of the performance, the congested room was alive with laughter, dancing, and smiling. This felt like a genuine jazz experience.

After the band finished, Richie wanted to purchase a t-shirt. While we were waiting around, Branden Lewis approached our group, having noticed my “USC Trojans” shirt. He started to converse with our group, asking about our class and what brought us to New Orleans. Branden proceeded to share his own journey into playing the trumpet. He encouraged us to continue pursuing these new experiences. Our conversation eventually turned to discussing our novel Coming Through Slaughter by Michael Ondaajte. Lewis emphasized that “everyone should know Buddy Bolden,” recognizing Bolden as a foundational figure in New Orleans Jazz. Artists like Louis Armstrong credit Bolden for being an early influence. While Bolden’s influence is undeniable, Lewis also acknowledged that he was a controversial character during his time. This is a topic we have discussed in class, regarding his behavior toward women and aggressive outbursts. Despite this controversy, it is evident how deeply rooted Buddy Bolden is in the New Orleans Jazz community.

It felt special to talk with the lead member of the Preservation Hall band. It tore down this barrier between performer and audience, highlighting how music is truly universal in its ability to connect people. More than that, this encounter has embodied my experience thus far. Music is the true identity of this city. It brings together a diverse community and creates a shared space for everyone. Whether it is the jazz echoing through the French Quarter, or strangers complimenting my Grateful Dead hat, or the Cajun Country radio station, the musical sounds that travel through New Orleans invite connection. To me, jazz reflects the resilience and spirit of this city, flowing freely and bringing people together in unexpected ways. I am deeply grateful to explore this new experience. It has furthered my belief in the ways that music connects people.